RIP Jane Birkin

my unconscious style icon

Hermes may have named its 18-200K bag after her. Baby blue with gold hardware is one of my personal faves. Birkin herself was known for carrying a straw picnic basket as her handbag on the red carpet and in everyday life.

I didn’t know much about her. She’s the mother of Charlotte Gainsbourg, she recorded a barely sublimated single with Serge Gainsbourg that I used to listen to “Je t’aime moi non plus.”

But I was thinking about how great it is to refer to a style icon as a matter of convenience if you don’t like shopping, don’t have much time for fashion, or don’t have much money. I spent some time with middle aged women who obviously don’t have style icons, which is unfortunately most women with PhDs and I thought, they need some one to organize their clothing choices according to replicable research methods. The men with PhDs are not worthy of mention. Prince Valiant haircuts and safari vests are enough to keep them feeling chic. I know you want to be known for your vast amounts of learning. I can’t get over Tevas.

For my generation, depending on your body type, you should pick one of two types of style icons to structure your look and your form of femininity. That’s not a popular word, but fuck it. Judith Butler said gender is a performance, and they knew that by wearing Levis and men’s shirts that they were actually choosing the Birkin style. Butler just didn’t go the distance with Birkin’s signature baby dolls and barely there sandals, but we can.

The two types of icons are - Jane Birkin/Jean Seberg and Marilyn Monroe/Sophia Loren. For older women who remember admiring these stylish women on screen, they are really good guides for putting together outfits. Long leggy, more androgynous types can work with boat necked striped sailer’s shirts and boy cut jeans. Short dresses without a waist are also flattering for the legs and forgiving for menopausal weight. Color palette of navy blue, baby blues, orange, white, pink and some but not too much black. Red trim, but not actually anything red. Oversized jackets and short skirts work well. Or fitted jackets and wide legged pants are also good.

For the Marilyn Monroe/Sophia Loren types, go with zaftig and wear dipping necklines with waistlines to show off wasp waists and full skirts to hid sensuous hips and thighs. Color palettes can range from gold, rust, reds to oranges with some black, depending on skin tone. Shapeless tops and schmattas are actually not good for this body type. Take a feature you love — shoulders, cleavage or a sensuous waist and emphasize it with well cut clothes and big jewelry.

At any age, avoid skin tight clothes.

For younger women, I have no idea what you’re up to and who your icons are. Your sneakers/trainers cost $800. They look like moon boots. Is your style icon Neil Armstrong crossed with Rihanna? You like to show your belly buttons in outfits that otherwise have way too much fabric. Is your style icon Mata Hari crossed with Milli Vanilli?

Do you wear rompers because you miss onesies?

I have walked with dinosaurs, so you don’t even know what I’m talking about.

In any case, RIP Jane Birkin. I didn’t know you at all, but I loved your style.